店主のぺろぺろ日記 外食歴40年。家に帰らず食べ歩く店主が綴るグルメブログ。食べ次第更新中！

フレンチ

Lee

2022年12月12日 06:41

ある方に紹介いただき最近、新世界に開店された表記のハイブリッド系のフレンチ店を訪問する。多分ネット記事ではこの日記が初めてのものと思う。住所や連絡先は不明でお店のファザードは看板も何もない。通天閣から徒歩1分なんだけど絶対にその場所がフレンチ店とはわからない。。

お店はカウンター10席のかなりモダンなシュッとした空間。料理もサービスも全てシェフのワンオペ。店名は若きイケメンシェフの名前から。心斎橋の名店などで修行し、関東で出張フレンチ料理人として活躍後にこちらの店を開店する。

料理はワンコースで10000円。5000円でワインペアリングの新世界価格。

最初にシャンパンをグラスでいただいてアミューズ一皿目が登場。新鮮な鰯をペーストにしてタルトの上に乗せたもの。小さなガラスの猪口にはオリーブオイルの浮かぶ昆布とあさりの熱いスープが入る。タルトをいただいてからスープを味わうと言う趣向。

軽めの白ワインとともにアミューズ２品目。黒い石が詰まった箱の中にはフォワグラをキャラメリゼしたものとキャビアを最中仕立てにしたもの。箱の上には木の葉の形のガレットにキャビアとサワークリームを乗せたもの、鴨もも肉を使ったリエットにピスタチオを混ぜ込んだもの、フォワグラの入った濃厚なミニタルトなど。どれもしっかりと手間がかかってるものばかりで一口でいただくのが勿体無い。

前菜一品目は舞茸が入った滑らかな鶏のムース。黒豆のパウダーとハーブオイルがかかる。全ての食材とソースの調和がとても良い。

前菜2品目はハナビラ茸を入れたリゾット。奥の調理場で火入れをして最終的な盛り付けは客の前で行われる。料理を作りつつ、ドリンクサービスをしながら楽しく客との会話もできるスーパーシェフに脱帽。リゾットの上には北海道産の雲丹とトリュフがてんこ盛りにされる。リゾットの底にはほうれん草と海苔を合わせたピューレが敷かれていて全てを混ぜ込んでいただくと口の中で味わいの層が幾重にも広がる。

この後の温菜に使う鹿児島産のうちひら肉のプレゼンテーション。。

この赤身肉をさっとバーナーで炙ってから、源助大根とともにポトフ仕立てにする。肉の上からホワイトマッシュルームとエシャロットの香りの熱いスープをかけて仕上げる。酸味のあるパンも自家製とのこと。

かなりのイケメンで仕事をする手元もかなり美しい。ワンオペでできる最大の可能性の仕事をされていると思われる。

続いてのフランス風の茶碗蒸し（ロワイヤル）は鶏出汁のフォンブランを使用。オリーブオイルとマイクロセルフィーユで仕上げる。あっさりとした口当たりはまさにフレンチの味わい。

ワインペアリングは7種類で5000円。。高価なものはないけどどれも話題性のある上質なものばかり。10人で2本ずつを分け合う。。かなりお得です。

メインはホルスタインの赤身肉を使ったローストビーフ。付け合わせは糖度の高い京都産の里芋を揚げたもの。牛骨で取ったソースと貝スープの泡を合わせる。。嫌ではない噛みごたえと赤身の味が良い。

食事は牛肉とエシャロット等の入ったフレンチ風の釜炊きご飯。。。

デセールは白ワインを使った自家製バニラアイスとフィナンシェのようなケーキでフィニッシュ。。最後はシェフ自ら外まで見送りもされて頭が下がる思いでした。近いうちに予約が取れない店になると予想されます。

訪問希望の読者様は紹介させていただきますので下記メールアドレスまで連絡ください。→ shatyo@nori-net.jp

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カテゴリー恵美須町, 動物園前, フレンチ |

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C：GRILL（シーグリル）ロブスターバー

2022年8月25日 06:05

肥後橋のコンラッド大阪の40階にある表記のレストランを訪問。6月9日から9月中旬まで（予定）の限定期間でシーグリルレストランのカウンター9席のみを使ってロブスターとシーフードメニューをカジュアルにいただけるお店。いわゆるレストラン内レストランのスタイル。週末のみの営業でかなりの人気とのこと。この日もスタッフさんに無理を言って席をリザーブしてもらう。

ランチ・ディナーとも10種類のアラカルトのロブスターとシーフードメニューをいただける。3品または5品を自由に選んで組み立てるプリフィクスのコースもあり。今回は5品7500円のセットを所望する。普段のテーブル席よりもシェフやバーテンダーの方との距離も近くよりカジュアルに食事を楽しむことができる。

アミューズは薄くてサクッとしたクリスピーな生地の中にロブスターの濃厚で高貴な香りのビスク（甲殻類のスープ）が射込まれる。たこ焼きをイメージしたものとのこと。素手でいただく事を勧めていただく。このアミューズで次の料理の期待が一層高まる。ロブスターはカナダ産を使用。

続いては「ロブスタービスクグリルドロブスターとサフラン」ロブスターの殻から取った濃厚なスープに少しの酸味のあるトマトテイストとサフランをカプチーノ風に仕立てたものを合わせた逸品。グリルしたロブスターは少し燻製がかかっている。

9人分の料理をカウンター内でワンオペで仕上げるシェフはワシントンDC出身のライアンダトファルザという長身のイケメン。

グリルロブスターのソフトタコスはトウモロコシで作ったトルティーヤがかなり美味しい。全てを巻いて大きな口を開けていただくと色々な複雑な味わいが口の中で広がる。海老や野菜の旨味や食感、ハーブのアクセントとライムの酸味と香りが渾然となって気分が一気に高揚する。赤のディッシュウエアもとてもいいセンス。

ロブスターにあうカジュアルなスパークリングやカバ、赤白ワインがいくつかあって今回はお任せで5種類のものを料理に合わせていただく。

ローカルマッシュルームのリゾットはイタリア産のリゾット米を使用。このリゾットがびっくりするくらい美味しい。ロブスターの頭の味噌や殻の旨味が強烈で米の一粒ずつに海老が入り込んでいるような感じ。ロブスターテイルのグリルは不要なくらいでリゾットだけお代わりしたいと思った。写真では見えにくいけど巨大なマッシュルームのソテーも添えられていてローカルということで六甲シャンピニオンを使用されていると推察される。

シェフのリコメンドメニューのロブスターのラビオリ。ロブスターの身とリコッタチーズをトマト味のモチモチ食感のラビオリ生地で包んだもの。焦がしバターのソースも濃厚でセージの香りもとてもいい。

ブラウンバター風味のロブスターロールはロブスターにカダイフを巻き付けて油で揚げたものを挟んだサンドイッチ。緑色のブリオッシュにはエストラゴンが練りこまれている。タルタルソースが添えられていてそれをつけていただく。ザクザク食感も楽しく、旨味の強い高級なエビフライサンドをいただいている感じ。

セットメニューと別にメインディッシュとしてロブスターの薪焼きを追加でいただく。爪の部分も美味しくてディル風味の苦味のあるソースも大人の味わい。どの皿もローポーションなんだけどお酒も美味しくてお腹いっぱいになり大満足。デザートは辞退して同フロアにあるラウンジ（40スカイバー）で一休み。

ずっと昔から演奏されている方を久しぶりに拝見。演奏後に一緒に写真を撮っていただきいい時間を過ごすことができました。海老好きの私には天国のようなレストランでした。

大阪市北区中之島3-2-4 コンラッド大阪 40F
06-6222-0111
金・土・日・祝
11:30〜14:30 17:30〜21:30

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カテゴリー梅田／JR大阪, 肥後橋, フレンチ, その他料理 |

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MICRADO 7月

2022年7月15日 06:22

住之江にある表記のレストランを仕事帰りに一人で訪問。最近一人で毎月訪問しているお気に入りのお店。大阪メトロ北加賀屋駅、南海本線住吉大社駅、阪堺線住吉鳥居前駅から徒歩10分の辺鄙な場所に位置する。コインパーキングは周りにたくさんある。

間口の狭いファザードはカフェのような印象。カウンター5席とテーブル席6席のみの小さなお店だけどオーナーシェフのミクさんが小さな厨房で手際よく作るオリジナリティー溢れる高品質で真摯な料理に予約がひっきりなしに入る人気店となっている。この日記を見て訪問された読者さんも大満足のメールを以前いただいたこともある。

この日、最初にいただいた前菜盛り合わせはガラスの器に入ったエンドウ豆のムース、鶏レバームース、中東料理のひよこ豆のフヌス、泉州産水茄子と南柑のマリネ、バターと牛乳、生クリームをたっぷり使ったマッシュポテトに春菊のソースと釜揚げしらすをのせたもの、茗荷とコールラビとビーツのピクルス。どれも生産者を含めた食材のこだわりとオリジナリティーにあふれた手をかけた仕事をしたものばかり。美味しすぎて白ワインが止まらなくなる。。

この日のワインはすっきりタイプの白をチョイス。地元のばんどう酒店の直輸入したものをセレクションしてもらっていると聞き及ぶ

礼文産の雲丹がたっぷりのせられたカッペリーニ。ソースは玉ねぎを焼いて裏ごしてクーリーにしたもの。とてもシルキーで雑味がなく塩胡椒だけの味付けなのにとてもコクがある。雲丹の上にはスイートアリスタムが飾られる。

メインは熊本の艶ポークを使ったカツレツ。ビジュアルだけで圧倒される逸品。火入れが完璧で滑らかできめ細かな肉質とカリッと揚がった細かいパン粉の相性がとてもいい。レモンを使ったオリジナルソースは肉の旨味をより際立たせている。ポークカツとレモンソースの組み合わせは初めてで目から鱗状態。

ワインが少し残ったので自家製バスク風チーズケーキを所望。なんども糖度を調節して砂糖の種類を変えて完成したレシピとのこと。何をいただいてもお手頃価格で美味しくてありそうでなかったお店。ランチもやってるけどディナータイムの早い時間の訪問がお勧めです。

過去のMICRADはこちら

大阪市住之江区中加賀屋4-2-3
日曜休み
090-3736-0286

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カテゴリー北加賀屋, 住吉大社, フレンチ, その他料理, レストラン |

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地域
- 大阪市
  - 我孫子
  - 阿波座
  - 今里
  - 梅田／JR大阪
  - 恵美須町
  - 扇町／天満
  - 岸里
  - 岸里玉出(南海)
  - 北加賀屋
  - 北巽／南巽
  - 北浜
  - 北畠
  - 京橋
  - 粉浜
  - 堺筋本町
  - 桜川／西長堀
  - 桜ノ宮
  - 沢ノ町
  - 四天王寺前夕陽ヶ丘
  - 昭和町
  - 十三
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  - 心斎橋／四ツ橋
  - 住之江
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  - 帝塚山
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  - 天神橋筋六丁目
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  - 天王寺／阿倍野
  - 東部市場前
  - 動物園前
  - 中崎町
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  - 長居
  - 長原／出戸
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